HAIR: All about Silicones in hair products (Part 1)

After the last blog post on hair care featuring the OXX System, many person shave shown an interest in hair care and the products I use. I was sent some "Silicone Mix" products to review but thought it would be best to do it in a two part series, with the first talking a bit about Silicones.

Silicone hair products have become very popular recently, whether because of all the positive accolades, or from the negativity of those that think silicones are akin to the devil. In all actuality, silicones do your hair no more harm that hairspray or other styling product, but here are some quick facts about silicones before we get into the products.


What are silicones in hair products and how do they work?

There are two types of silicones: Water soluble and non-soluble silicones. Water soluble silicones are ones that can be washed away with water and nothing more. Non-soluble silicones are exactly the opposite of its soluble counterparts. Non-soluble silicones require sulfates in order to be washed away. While there are two categories of silicones, neither is better than the other because silicones do not actually benefit the hair in any way. In fact, silicones only give the “appearance” of healthier hair.
Silicones coat the hair to make it appear sleeker, frizz free and healthier. For example, silicones found in conditioners, hair polishers( serums) and frizz taming products coat the strands to make them “appear” sleeker and more polished. They also add a bit of weight to give fine, fragile hair substance. In essence, silicone based products only provide a temporary smoothing effect.

How do silicones work?

Silicones work by covering hair with a thin hydrophobic (waterproof) coating. This coating serves several purposes:

1. Reduces the porosity of the hair, which makes it less likely to absorb humidity (Which is why it’s great for smoothing and straightening!)
2. Reduces moisture loss from the inside of the hair (Great for conditioning.)
3. Lubricates the surface of the hair so it feel smoother and combs easier (Makes your hair feel slippery and less tangled.)  (Example a hair polisher Fantasia High Potency IC Hair Polisher, 6 oz.)

Types of Silicones and their Purpose

1. Cyclomethicone is one of the most commonly used silicones in hair care. It’s a volatile silicone, which means it evaporates and won’t build up on your hair. It gives a silky, smooth feel and leaves the hair with incredible slip when wet and is found in both leave-on and rinse-off products.
2. Dimethicone Copolyol is a water-soluble, lightweight silicone that provides very little buildup. It is often used in conditioning shampoos.
3. Amodimethicone (or silicones that have “amo”, “amine” or “amino” in their name) is a different kind of silicone that is chemically modified to stick to your hair better. That means it conditions well but it can also be more challenging to remove. Amodimethicone is commonly used in leave-in conditioners.
4. Dimethicone is sometimes referred to as a silicone oil. Dimethicone coats hair, providing great shine and conditioning to the hair. However, because it’s so water insoluble, it can be difficult to remove. Additionally, this heavy coating is more likely to attract dirt and pollutants from the air, making the hair feel weighed down. Dimethicone is often found in serums and other leave-on products.

How can I deal with buildup if I use silicone products?

Wash your hair! Any decent shampoo will wash away silicone. However, if you are a heavy user or products containing silicone (particularly those with dimethicone), you may have to lather, rinse and repeat. I personally shampoo twice with a clarifying shampoo (no more than 2 times as this will strip essential moisture from your hair). You can also try a vinegar rinse every few weeks if buildup is bad and I recently discovered that baking soda is even a better clarifying agent than vinegar. If you want the benefits of silicone without the weight, look for lightweight silicones, as mentioned above, like cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol. These ingredients won’t build up but still give you some conditioning and shine benefits.

Bottom Line

I personally find the benefits of silicones to far outweigh any negatives. Silicones are very effective conditioners, provide great shine and can help smooth and straighten hair. If you are concerned about buildup and weigh down, be sure to look at the label to make sure you are using lightweight silicones.

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